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Customer Technical FAQ
1) If power is going into controller but not out of the controller is there a problem ?
a) if the LED is flashing then no power will come out of controller
b) customer must use BLACK ground wire going into controller when testing for power
2) What are the functions of each wire ? – I want to tie to the factory switch
a) Factory switches cannot support the current requirements of our kit
3) What does it mean when the LED flashes ?
a) If LED is “ON” longer than it is “OFF” then problem is either a break in the heating element circuit or a low voltage condition on the controller input from fuse box. Pull on brown, blue, & yellow wires at all connectors to verify they are properly seated in the connector. Don’t forget the connector on the back element. To verify voltage input use voltmeter across red AND black wires AT the control module (should read 11-14V). A possible cause is a poor ground connection (check connections or try another grounding point). Another possible cause is the fuse tapped for power is computer controlled (try another fuse). Odds are that control module is working fine especially if a new installation.
b) If LED is “OFF” longer than it is “ON” then there is a problem with the heat sensor circuit. Pull on grey & green wires at connectors to verify that they are properly seated in the connector. If possible swap in another control module to see if LED still flashes … if so then problem is inside cushion element (replace). Odds are that control module is working fine especially if new installation.
4) Is our new controller compatible with pads from the past
YES!
5) I have seat heaters from 1998 on my shelf, can I still use them ?
No.. the shelf life of an uninstalled seat heater element is about 1 year
6) How do you check for continuity ?
a) heating elements – Disconnect cushion element from harness/controller. Use a continuity tester/ohm-meter and place probes on blue and yellow wires (keep back element connected to cushion element). If continuity exists then elements OK. If not disconnect back element and test it by placing probes on blue and brown wires. If continuity exists then back element is OK and cushion element is not OK.
b) Power harness – Disconnect from harness/controller. Use a voltmeter or test light and place probes across red and black wires. You should read 11-14 Volts. If using a test light you must use the black wire as ground and not some other grounding point in the car.
c) Switches – Do not remove switch from harness unless absolutely necessary. Use a voltmeter or testlight. Use any convient grounding point. Place probe on switch terminal with red wire – you should read 11-14V. Place probe on white wire. You should read 11-14V when switch is toggled in one position. Repeat for orange wire. If switch has brown wire do no test.
7) The controller is clicking continuously, what does that mean ?
a) Old controller (size of two decks of cards) is the only one that can “click”. This means there is a low voltage condition or a bad ground connection. Check fuse – it may be ready to fail.
8) Only one pad is heating ?
a) Because the system is connected serially it is impossible for only one pad to work and not the other. They either both work or they don’t.
b) Explain that you have to sit on the seat for 5 minutes to feel heat… leaving seat “on” for 5 minutes and then sitting in the seat is not the same thing.
9) Where do I check for poor ground connections
a) Do not drill hole in floor board to make a ground connection
b) Check crimping on ground wire for poor connection
c) Verify terminals are fully seated in connectors
d) Clean paint, grease, etc from grounding point
10) There is an unused factory fuse, can I put more than one seat heater on that circuit ?
a) Yes – 2 seat heaters on 15A fuse, 3 seat heaters on 20A fuse
-Check Corp. Forum Admin.
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